经过这几天的辛苦研究, 发现了一些在化妆品里容易引起痘痘的成分和可以祛痘的成分, 如下:
一.致痘成份:
一些保养品中的油脂、合成酯类或是乳化剂容易造成肌肤毛细孔阻塞,或是刺激肌肤发炎导致痘痘,对于容易长青春痘的人,这类容易引起痘痘产生的致痘成份(Comedogenic)就要特别小心,例如矿物油(MinerolOil)、液态蜡(LiquidParaffin)、凡士林(Vaselin)、石蜡(Petrolatum)及14酸异丙酯(Isopropylmyristate)等等。
有些卸妆油添加的致痘性的合成酯如16酸异丙酯(IPM,Isopropylpalmitate),就是属于刺激感较大的成份,有致痘可能性。对于卸妆油里面的矿物油成分是否会引起痘痘,说法不一。因为卸妆油里面的矿物油停留在皮肤上的时间很短,只要立刻洗净应该不会引起痘痘。另一说法是矿物油的纯度不足,如果卸妆产品中的矿物油纯度比较低,混着杂质,则很有可能引起痘痘。
二. 祛痘成份:
根据主要功效将祛痘成份分为以下4种:
1.抗菌消炎:
主要作用在于抑制痤疮杆菌,使痘痘伤口收敛、愈合,常见的成分有过氧化苯甲酰(Benzoylperoxide)、三氯沙(Triclosan)、硫黄(Sulfur)、海藻、芦荟、茶树、龙胆紫、大蒜提取物、蛇麻油、甘菊、向日葵、金盏花及金缕梅等植物萃取物。
过氧化苯甲酰(Benzoylperoxide)有抗菌、去角质作用,对白头粉刺、红肿型痘痘,有不错的控制效果。
三氯沙(Triclosan):一种杀菌成份,协助治疗痘痘,浓度0.3%。
硫黄(Sulfur):一种强效杀菌剂,治疗痘痘,浓度2%。
海藻(Seaweed):主要通过破坏致痘细菌生存环境达到祛痘目的,具有不伤有益菌,无依赖性,祛痘安全等优点。
芦荟(Aloe):主要通过清热解毒作用抑制痤疮的炎症。
2.去角质:
去除老废角质,加速皮肤表层的新陈代谢,清除粉刺,使皮肤明亮。如水杨酸、果酸、维生素A酸、酵素、尿囊素等等。
水杨酸(Salicylicacid):可以同时处理老废角质,并清洁毛孔中堆积的粉刺污垢,促进肌肤新陈代谢,让肌肤看起来较透明。但是要注意:不得长期使用接触于皮肤,三岁以下婴孩不得使用。浓度:0.2%~0.5%
果酸(Fruitacids)可去除老废角质,可加速表皮层的新陈代谢速度。浓度较高者可以去除肌肤的较里层,但较干躁的肌肤、和敏性肤质,并不宜使用太高浓度的果酸。
维生素A酸(VitaminAacid)主要的功能为去角质,能脱除过厚的角质,可治疗痘痘,对没有发炎的粉刺较为适用。也是极有名的抗老化成分。
酵素较果酸温和,主要应用于促进角质代谢。对于受伤或长有痘痘的肌肤,使用酵素去角质是极佳的选择。
3.控油:
痘痘肌肤通常有出油困扰,使皮脂堆积,氧化产生粉刺,控油成分以矽化分子、滑石粉、矿物颗粒、米较为常见。
4.激素调和:
丹参酮:具有类雌性激素作用,抗炎作用,祛脂质作用等。
EstradiolEstroneEthinylestradiol女性荷尔蒙(动情激素)之衍生物,能够防止粉刺及肌肤异常出油。
还有一些更详细的致痘成分列表:
NAME(INCI名称) COM IRR
Solvent Acetone 0 5
Lanolins & Derivatives Acetylated Lanolin 4 0
Lanolins & Derivatives Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol 4 2
Botanicals Algae Extract 5 4
Minerals Algin 4 4
Preservatives & Additives Allantoin 0 0
Natural Oils Almond Oil 2 0
Botanicals Aloe Vera Gel 0 0
Miscellaneous Aminomethylpropionate 0 0
Lanolins & Derivatives Anhydrous Lanolin 0-1 0
Natural Oils Apricot Kernel Oil 2 0
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Arachidic Acid 2 0
Vitamins & Herbs Ascorbic Acid 0 0
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Ascorbyl Palmitate 2 0
Natural Oils Avocado Oil 2 0
Hydrocarbon Azulene 2 0
Antioxidant BHA 2 3
Waxes Beeswax 0-2 0-2
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Behenic Acid 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Behenyl Triglyceride 0 0
Clay Bentonite 0 0
Fragrance Benzaldehyde 2 2
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Benzoic Acid 2 3
Antioxidant Beta Carotene 1 0
Vitamins & Herbs Black Walnut Extract 0 0
Proteins & Enzymes Bromelain 0 0
Natural Oils Bubussa Oil 1 0
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Butyl Stearate 3 0
Antioxidant Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA) 2 3
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Butylene Glycol 1 0
Natural Oils Cajeput Oil 2 4
Botanicals Calendula 1 0
Natural Oils Camphor 2 2
Waxes Candelilla Wax 1 1
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Capric Acid 2 2
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Caprylic Acid 1 3
Miscellaneous Carbomer 0 1
Thickeners & Emulsifiers Carbomer 940 1 0
Sodium Carboxypropylcellulose 1 0
Pigments Carmine 0 0
Waxes Carnuba Wax 1 1
Antioxidant Carotene 1 0
Botanicals Carrageenan 5 2
Natural Oils Castor Oil 1 0
Waxes Ceresin Wax 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Cetearyl Alcohol 2 1
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Cetearyl Alcohol + Ceteareth 20 4 1
Lanolins & Derivatives Cetyl Acetate 4 0-3
Alcohols Sugars & Derivatives Cetyl Alcohol 2 2
Botanicals Chamomile 2 0
Botanicals Chamomile Extract 0 0
Natural Oils Chaulomoogra Oil 1 0
Sterols Cholesterol 0 0
Sterols Choleth 24 0 0
Pigments Chromium Hydroxide 0 0
Natural Oils Cocoa Butter 4 0
Natural Oils Coconut Butter 4 0
Natural Oils Coconut Oil 4 1
Botanicals Cold Pressed Aloe Vera 0 0
Minerals Colloidal Sulfur 3 4
Natural Oils Corn Oil 2 0
Natural Oils Cotton Awws Oil 3 0
Natural Oils Cotton Seed Oil 3 0-5
Natural Oils Crisco 3 0
Silicones Cyclomethicone 0 0
Pigments D & C Red # 17 3 0
Pigment - banned by FDA D & C Red # 19 2 0
Pigments D & C Red # 21 3 0
Pigments D & C Red # 3 3 0
Pigments D & C Red # 30 3 0
Pigments D & C Red # 33 1 0
Pigments D & C Red # 36 3 0
Pigments D & C Red # 4 1 0
Pigments D & C Red # 6 1 0
Pigments D & C Red # 7 1 0
Pigments D & C Red # 9 1 0
Pigments D&C Red #27 2 0
Pigments D&C Red #40 2 2
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Decyl Oleate 3 0
Miscellaneous Deionized Water 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Diethylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether 0 0
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Diisopropyl Adipate 0 0
Silicones Dimethicone 1 0
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate 0 0
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Dioctyl Succinate 3 2
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Disodium Monooleamido PEG 2-Sulfosuccinate 4 2
Waxes Emulsifying Wax NF 0-2 0-2
Preservatives Ethyl Paraben 0 0
Lanolins & Derivatives Ethoxylated Lanolin 3 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Ethyl Ether 0 0
Miscellaneous Ethylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Ethylene Glycol Monostearate 0 0
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Ethylhexyl Palmitate 4 0
Natural Oils Evening Primrose Oil 2 2
Minerals Flowers of Sulfur 0 3
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Glycerin 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Glyceryl Stearate NSE 1 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Glyceryl Stearate SE 3 2
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Glyceryl Tricapylo/Caprate 1 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Glyceryl-3-Diisostearate 4 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Hexadecyl Alcohol 5 2
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Hexylene Glycol 2 1
Preservatives Hydantoin 0 0
Natural Oils Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1 0
Natural Oils Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 3 0-1
Natural Oils Hydrolyzed Animal Protein 0 0
Thickeners & Emulsifiers Hydroxypropylcellulose 1 0
Pigments Iron Oxide 0 0
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Isocetyl Alcohol 4 4
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Isocetyl Stearate 5 0
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Isodecyl Oleate 4 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Isopropyl Alcohol 0 4
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Isopropyl Isostearate 5 0
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Isopropyl Linolate 5 0-3
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Isopropyl Myristate 5 3
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Isopropyl Palmitate 4 1
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Isostearyl Isostearate 4 1
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Isostearyl Neopentanoate 3 3
Waxes Jojoba Oil 0-2 0-2
Thickeners Kaolin 0 0
Lanolins & Derivatives Lanolin Alcohol 0-2 0
Lanolins & Derivatives Lanolin Oil 1 0
Waxes Lanolin Wax 1 1
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Laureth 23 3 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Laureth 4 5 4
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Lauric Acid 4 1
Miscellaneous Lithium Stearate 1 0
Thickeners Magneseium Aluminum Silicate 0 0
Miscellaneous Magnesium Stearate 1 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Menthyl Anthranilate 0 0
Preservatives Methyl Paraben 0 0
Natural Oils Mineral Oil 0 0
Natural Oils Mink Oil 3 1
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Myristic Acid 3 0
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Myristyl Lactate 4 2
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Myristyl Myristate 5 2
Miscellaneous Octyl Dimethyl PABA 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Octyl Methoxycinnimate 0 0
Miscellaneous Octyl Palmitate 4 1
Miscellaneous Octyl Salicylate 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Octyl Stearate 5 5
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Octyldodecyl Stearate 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Oleth-3 5 2
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Oleth-10 2 1
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Oleyl Alcohol 4 2
Natural Oils Olive Oil 2 0
Miscellaneous Oxybenzone 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars PEG 40 Castor Oil 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars PEG 100 Distearate 2 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars PEG 100 Stearate 1 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars PEG 150 Distearate 2 0
Lanolins & Derivatives PEG 16 Lanolin 4 3
Alcohols Sugars & Derivatives PEG 20 Stearate 1 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars PEG 200 Dilaurate 3 2
Sterols PEG 5 Soya Sterol 0 0
Sterols PEG 10 Soya Sterol 0 1
Lanolins & Derivatives PEG 75 Lanolin 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars PEG 8 Stearate 3 1
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars PG Caprylate/Caprate 1 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars PG Dipelargonate 2 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars PG Monostearate 3 0
Fatty Acids & Derivatives *** 2 Myristyl Propionate 4 3
Fatty Acids & Derivatives *** 30 Cety Ester 0 0
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Palmitic Acid 2 0
Vitamins & Herbs Panthenol 0 0
Proteins & Enzymes Papain 0 0-3
Natural Oils Peanut Oil 2 0-2
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Pentarythrital Tetra Capra/Caprylate 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Pentarythrital Tetra Isostearate 2 0
Natural Oils Petrolatum 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars PG Dicaprylate/Caprate 1 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars PG Dipelargonate 2 2
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Polyethylene Glycol (PEG 400) 1 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Polyethylene Glycol 300 1 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Polyglyceryl-3-Diisostearate 4 0
Alcohol, Ester Polysorbate 20 0 0
Alcohol, Ester Polysorbate 80 0 0
Minerals Potassium Chloride 5 0-3
Minerals Precipitated Sulfur 0 0-2
Preservatives & Additives Propyl Paraben 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Propylene Glycol 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Propylene Glycol Monostearate 4 0
Botanicals Red Algae 5 2
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars SD Alcohol 40 0 5
Natural Oils Safflower Oil 0 0
Natural Oils Sandelwood Seed Oil 2 0
Natural Oils Sesame Oil 2 0
Oils Shark Liver Oil 3 2
Miscellaneous Simethicone 1 0
Minerals Sodium Chloride (Salt) 5 0-3
Preservatives & Additives Sodium Hyaluronate 0 0
Detergents Sodium Laureth Sulfate 3 2
Detergents Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 5 2
Miscellaneous Sodium PCA 0 0
Lanolins & Derivatives Solulan 16 4 3
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Sorbitan Laurate 1 1
Thickeners & Emulsifiers Sorbitan Oleate 3 0
Alcohols Sugars & Derivatives Sorbitan Sesquinoleate 0 0
Alcohols Sugars & Derivatives Sorbitan Stearate 0 1
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Sorbitol 0 0
Sterols Soya Sterol 0 0
Natural Oils Soybean Oil 3 0
Natural Oils Squalane 1 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Steareth 10 4 3
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Steareth 100 0 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Steareth 2 2 2
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Steareth 20 2 1
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Stearic Acid 2 0
Miscellaneous Stearic Acid Tea 3 2
Alcohols Sugars & Derivatives Stearyl Alcohol 2 2
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Stearyl Heptanoate 4 0
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Sterol Esters 0 0
Natural Oils Sulfated Castor Oil 3 2
Waxes Sulfated Jojoba Oil 3 2
Natural Oils Sunflower Oil 0 0
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Syearyl Heptanoate 4 0
Minerals Talc 1 0
Pigments Titanium Dioxide 0 0
Vitamins & Herbs Tocopheryl Acetate 0 0
Fatty Acids & Derivatives Tridectyl Neopentanoate 0 3
Miscellaneous Triethanolamine 2 0
Pigments Ultramarine Violet 0 0
Vitamins & Herbs Vitamin A Palmitate 2 1
Alcohols, Esters, Ethers & Sugars Wheat Germ Glyceride 3 2
Natural Oils Wheat Germ Oil 5 2
Miscellaneous Xylene 4 3
Astringent Zinc Oxide 1 0
Minerals Zinc Stearate 0 0
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